"Benedict Arnold," my best friend called me one day. She called me that a few times afterwards, too.
My best friend had lived in the United States during some of her elementary school years, and I had not. Other than
missionaries, who are a different breed, my experience with U.S. citizens had
shown that the Ugly American was alive and well. When tourists came from the United States to visit Malaysia, more often than not they expected
life to provide what they were used to in their home country: a comfy bed with sheets like they were used to, air conditioning that would make the muggy weather bearable for them,
foods that they were more familiar with, and that devilish
"the customer is always right" concept that creates monsters
out of people.
And I would become deeply embarrassed.
I had no loyalties to my passport country, having not lived here yet. I had three birth certificates--one Thai, one Dutch (because of my
father) and one American (because of my mother). I carried both Thai and American
passports until I was 11 years old, and knew I could claim the Dutch one if I
wanted to. So why should I defend the bad behavior of Americans? And why should
I not complain about it when I saw it?
People who said that the United States was better than any other
country, mystified me. I'd traveled to a lot of countries, and there were plenty of
good ones out there (providing freedom and democracy and all that good stuff),
with plenty of good people sprinkled around. What kind of hubris would make
Americans boast like they did? European and Australian tourists were far more culturally aware, I noticed, than the Americans.
"The United States is NOT the greatest country," I told Lois.
"You're just a Benedict Arnold," she replied, hotly.
When I was 17 years old the new Chemistry teacher from my
boarding school came by our island for a visit. She was 24 and wanted to take a
train up through Thailand to Chiangmai in the north. She invited me to join her on the trip.
So I packed my backpack, took the ferry over with her to the train station, and we headed north through rice paddies and rain-forested mountains.
After touring around Bangkok, my teacher and I went to the bus station to catch an overnight air-conditioned bus up to Chiangmai. The idea was to lean our seats back, sleep while
the driver drove, and arrive in the highlands of Thailand ready to sightsee.
The bus broke down somewhere out there on a dark road that night.
That meant the frigid air conditioning went out, and we sat. And sat.
Eventually another overnight bus pulled up in front of us and we joined those passengers, along with our stuff. There weren't enough empty seats for the combination of two busloads, so my teacher was left standing in the aisle while I sat on the steps just inside the door. I heard her ask the conductor for a seat. He indicated that they were full. (Duh.) I heard her ask how long it would be until we arrived. It would be something like five hours, he said. I leaned back against something and settled in for a long night.
Eventually another overnight bus pulled up in front of us and we joined those passengers, along with our stuff. There weren't enough empty seats for the combination of two busloads, so my teacher was left standing in the aisle while I sat on the steps just inside the door. I heard her ask the conductor for a seat. He indicated that they were full. (Duh.) I heard her ask how long it would be until we arrived. It would be something like five hours, he said. I leaned back against something and settled in for a long night.
And then I heard my teacher tell the conductor, quite insistently and with voice raised (the way American tourists do when they think if they speak louder, people will understand better), that she
had paid for a seat, and she should have one.
You've GOT to be kidding! I was so embarrassed, I wanted to crawl
under a seat. No, I wanted to open the bus door and push her out. Okay, maybe I
wanted her to just be quiet. I wanted to not be carrying my American passport
next to THAT attitude. Did she even have a clue how lucky we were not to be back there
in the broken down bus on the side of the road? It was just more of that "You owe me" attitude I had
seen in other American tourists, and I wanted none of a country that behaved
with that kind of entitlement and lack of cultural sensitivity.
I grew up with the sense that I was a citizen of the world. ("Third Culture Kids," the research calls us nowadays.) When it was time to go to college, I applied to a college about
an hour's train ride outside of London, England, and was accepted. But then
some administrators came through Singapore from my father's alma mater, a little college in Washington state. I just
happened to ask them, "If I come to your college, can I get my hands on a pipe organ?" (An instrument I
desperately wanted to learn to play.) They said sure. In fact, they said, they had...and they
stopped to count them...six pipe organs at the college. That did it for me! Certainly I would get a chance at plenty of time on a pipe organ if I went to my dad's college out in the no-wheres.
On the strength of that serendipitous little conversation about pipe organs, my
whole life pivoted, and this Benedict Arnold came to study and live in the
United States.
(to be continued)
(to be continued)





